DAS Forum für Yamaha XT600 und XT600Z

Hallo,

Mein Name ist David und ich bin von San Francisco, Kalifornien. Ich spreche kein Deutsch - sorry, wenn dies schwer zu lesen. Ich trat dieser Website, weil ich hörte, dass Ihre Gemeinde ist eine der besten für das Lernen über meine XT600.

Ich kaufte meine "1985 XT600 49L" letzte Woche, und ich bin sehr aufgeregt, daran zu arbeiten zu beginnen. Das Motorrad läuft derzeit, aber ich möchte, um den Motor wieder aufzubauen. Ich habe bereits Teile (Dichtung und Dichtungen, Edelstahlschrauben, etc) gekauft.

Ich brauche deine Hilfe. Ich möchte die Vorderradbremse und der Suspension zu verbessern.

Die Vorderradbremse ist zu weich und schwach, und ich überlege mir die Umstellung auf eine andere Gabel-Set. Glauben Sie, dass der aktuelle Gabel und Bremse kann ein Upgrade auf gute Nothalt in einer Stadt zur Verfügung zu stellen?

Die Vorderachse und Hinterachse sind beide zu weich, auch für mein Licht 77kg Gewicht.

Ich möchte das Motorrad gut für die Stadt reiten (90%) und manchmal trail (10%) zu machen. Ich wünschte, ich könnte eine bessere Nachricht zu schreiben, aber ich habe es einfach so der Google Übersetzer kann mir helfen.

Wenn Sie Englisch verstehen - Ich habe weitere Informationen über meine XT600 hier: http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/y ... -new-81725

Mit freundlichen Grüßen,
David

I love SF

Hi David,
nice bike. If the engine runs well (it sounds o.k. in the vid), remember: "Never touch a running system."

To change fork springs and brake shoes, I would suggest to visit a local dirt bike shop. I think they have the spare parts. Greetings ...Herbert

A link for more informations

http://www.xt600.de/

http://www.rallye-tenere.net/Stamb_xt_600_43f.htm

Hi David,

no more answers so far...
the experts seem to be out of town...

Not being the real expert myself, I try to answer though:
Brakes:
The XT 600 brakes are not this bad. New brake pads and shoes may do the job as well as a cleanup of the whole system (front caliper should be disassembled and reassembled very carefully; if you are not sure about what you are doing, see a specialist!!) and you might think about a braided steel brake line for the front brake.
We are talking about a 30year-old bike, so the original front brake line may be a bit worn out...

front suspension: try to to play a bit with the pressure of the air support and if that doesn't turn out satisfying, progressive fork springs are available on ebay.
Rear suspension is much more difficult to tune. becki here on the board is pretty deep in this matter, maybe he can write something on it.

And if you are thinking about a different wheelset (I understood that from your posting on horizonsunlimitied.com), a friendly junkyard-owner in the neighbourhood may be helpfull, especially if you are running on low budget

greets Bernhard

Hi David,
I read your post on Horizons Unlimited as well, so I am quoting that here for my answers:

15500 miles would be very low for a bike that age, you may want to check on the cam chain tension just to make sure. This is easy enough and a 5 minute job. The chain tesnioner is automatic and spring loaded, and you only check how much way is left there. It sits on the left rear side of the cylinder, there is a big nut to be opened, and out comes the spring. Now open the smaller bolts on top and bottom of the unit and pull it out of the engine. You see the slider "piston" that pushes against the guides in the engine. Pull it out slowly and count the clicks - there should be some left, I guess 7 or more with a low mileage.
Then you unlock the slider (lift the little ratchet tongue) and push the slider fully back into the unit. Bolt it back into the cylinder (2 small bolts), then fit spring and big bolt - the spring now pushes the slider back to its right position.
If there is only 1 or 2 clicks left it is time to get a replacement chain and ask the previous owner about the REAL mileage

If the cam chain is in mint condition, why change the chain or open the engine? I would just ride it and check for oil consumption (take notes) to decide whether the engine really needs overhauling.

As for the Athena aftermarket gasket quality, some here - me included - found that the rubber gaskets are of inferior quality. This means the small oil seals inside the cylinder and the valve shaft seals especially - I would go for original parts there as my Athena stuff gave up in year 1 after the rebuild. The rest was quite OK.

If you are not familiar with dry sump Yamaha engines, bear in mind that the engine oil check is somewhat different. You check the oil level only after a few miles ride, just switch off the engine after riding (do not let her idle on the side stand), and check the dipstick right away. Letting the engine sit some time before checking will have a different reading, as well as measuring after idle on the side stand.

Thats what I can tell you, owning a Tenere model 1987 with a very similar engine. So I do not know about options for upgrading brakes etc for yours. I run a Netherlad brand White Power shock in the rear, which is OK and may be available for your model as well.

Andy

Look here for original spare-parts:

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamah ... parts.html

or here for the 1985 california edition:

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamah ... parts.html

Hy there,
forget about the fork springs for now, first of all find someone to check and revise the fork. It will be different with new bushings and oil inside. Most times, there is none anymore.
Surprisingly, this seems to be forgotten on all the XTs and XLs that are out there. I had 13 motorcycles over the years and not a single one came with a well maintained fork. Right now, I have two XTs under my wings (the Ladys and mine) and on both I found gunk inside the fork that would pass as crude oil mixed with organic remains of insects. To round up the mixture, there will be metal chips inside the oil. It´s dark grey and it stinks. It ate the seals and the bushings look alike.

With a revised fork (this will set you back 100-150 bucks) get a set of braided steel brake hoses and change the braking fluid (on most bikes, it was never changed). Check the steering stem bearings, check the swing arm bearings or in case you don´t want to, just regrease them until kingdom comes. Then, go riding.

Let us know how everything works when it is lubed and filled like it should be.

Cheers,
Andreas